After over a decade away from releasing patterns, I wanted my return to be both meaningful and foundational. That’s why I chose the classic shift dress as the starting point for my latest design – the Virginia Dress. Not only is it a timeless silhouette, but it’s also the very first pattern I ever drafted during design school. It felt like coming full circle; a new beginning.
✨ The Inspiration & Research
A shift dress is a design chameleon; it’s simple, adaptable, and endlessly wearable. I’ve always loved its versatility, and revisiting it after all these years gave me a fresh perspective. This dress was about more than fashion; it was a personal benchmark, blending nostalgia with the skills I’ve gained since my early drafting days.
🧵 Design Iterations & Development
I explored a range of variations from sleeveless options to skirt-only versions highlighting just how flexible this pattern could be. Throughout the process, I aimed to design something that could evolve with the wearer’s needs and style.
The Virginia Dress went through over 12 versions to get it just right. Each iteration refined the fit and addressed new challenges:
- Adjustments in grade rules across sizes – when it fit well on a size 6 but needed tweaking for size 16
- Redefining standards to make future patterns more consistent
🖥 Embracing New Tech: CLO3D
For the first time, I integrated CLO3D into my development workflow. Using this 3D software helped me spot and solve fit issues early on—before even touching fabric. It streamlined the prototyping process and saved time without compromising the final quality.
📐 Setting New Standards
I also took this opportunity to rethink how I present my patterns:
- Nested patterns with dashed lines: These are easier to print in black and white—ideal for sewists who don’t have access to color printing.
- Simplified darts: Instead of crowding the pattern with darts for every size, I added a faint guide in one size so sewists can add their own based on what they need.
- Sleeveless-specific bodice: I created two front bodice options, one with reduced ease for a cleaner fit when sleeveless.
You can read more about my pattern standards here -> (Coming Soon)
🧵 A Note on Fit
While I’ve worked hard to create a well-balanced, graded pattern, we all know that no one-size-fits-all standard exists. Bodies are beautifully diverse. So consider this pattern a strong starting point with built-in room for you to adjust it to your own perfect fit.
Thanks for coming along on this journey with me.
xx Charlene
